I can easily summon the pang of desire I felt some years ago when, scrolling through Instagram, I first laid eyes on the teishoku, or set meal, served for breakfast at the Park Hyatt Tokyo. I wanted to get on the next plane to Japan, to try for myself the delicate-looking pieces of grilled fish, presented alongside small bowls of cloudy miso soup and glossy white rice, wedges of fresh tofu and tamago (a Japanese omelette), berries and cubed melon, and a pot of tea. Japanese breakfast: a meal so beautiful that the writer and musician Michelle Zauner named her band after it.
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